update...

I didn't unbolt these 3 bolts.

I just cleaned with brake cleaner, the throttle body, very carefully, which looked very clear.

and i didn't pressed brake cleaner through ISC motor, as i didn't wanted to
get in trouble, 1 in a million.

anyway, i installed all back, and idle is very-very stable.

so problem solved.

According to service manual, the 6-pin connector of ISC, must measure the resistance of 4 coils inside. so , in pairs, 1-2, 2-3, 4-5,5-6, and all of them worked at 38 Ohms.

According to manual, these updated ISC value is about 40 Ohms.

So everything good.

I just wanted someone of you to inform me, if he ever opened in parts,

so noone did it.

have you ever disassemby it?

cause if you unbolt 3 screws, of plastic black cap, then it is going out, but in pieces.

exactly the same, just the N33W don't have the front motor mount, needs a bit work. Nothing else.

changed a santamo getriebe to my friend (he has spacewagon N33W), and top condition, price was 150e, from greece.

Hi, I have the good fellow, called santamo, crossfingers!!!!

During last month, when hot, and in very much city driving, start stop, temp normal, and i got the idle go from 900-300-900 rpm, almost stops.

This happens only when very hot, and in city.

I know the mitsubishi DSM ISC valve cleaning, but, in our cars it seems to be again different.

The DSM ISC has plastic cap with 3 cross-screws, and before this 2 screws more to be able to take it out and clear it.

Our has only the 3 cross-screws, on the plastic cap with the 6-pin connector, so how should i disassembly?

Anyone clean it before?

mitsu is http://www.dsmisc.com/dsmweb-d…s/bigpics/P1010004001.jpg

mitsu has 2 rear screws for disassembly.

Hyundai don't have.

Hyundai if i unscrew these 3 screws i will have this

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/96-98-H…33525-/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$(KGrHqR,!iQE87vsHVVzBPZiT23wIQ~~60_57.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/96-98-H…33525-/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$(KGrHqF,!pcE9eNM3fpbBPZiT342Kw~~60_35.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/96-98-H…33525-/00/s/OTYwWDEyODA=/$(KGrHqZ,!jQE9N1OLBprBPZiT1m-5g~~60_35.JPG

here in greece, some very cheap clutch kits, label AISIN , blue-white letters. BUT..... they are fake.
Example, i installed 2 times, this clutch-kits to 2001 accent, and failed after 15000km MAX. Very bad quality.
Complete kit price? 69e.... pressure plate, clutch disc, and clutch bearing.

see yourself

http://www.car.gr/parts/view/3332624/

http://www.car.gr/parts/view/3332265/

http://www.car.gr/parts/view/3220967/

i really think that this is better motor, cause more simple.

simple is always better.

greece high temps, DOHC motor just 5 cm from bonnet, so every time i

open bonnet everything very hot.

and perfomance bad for me. really bad....

so, why so much technology and twin cam, 16valve, DOHC, and bob shaft?

why?

i wish i had a simple motor in my car.....sorry guys but i wish i had it.

like the simple accent 1.35motor G4HC which is very-very simple but goes

perfect....perfect....perfect.

for everybody to help,

The metal exhaust flange was bad cause spark plug cables was not in good condition.
The cylinder near Crankshaft position sensor, had the exhaust leak and noise.
It was cause by misfiring ignition at that cylinder, which was cause by slack ignition spark cable pipe to spark-plug fit.

I was spraying during night water to the cables to see if i have electric leak, but no signs.

So i replaced them just by the feeling, and it was 100% best thing i did.

Now LPG working perfect.

Also i installed a new CPS, again, bought it discount original 85 euros.

Motor is in best ever condition, i never felt my motor so good.

again, i use 92 RON fuel, for timing adjust, should i rotate clockwise for (-) pre-ignition and anti-clockwise for (+) pre-ignition? i read all the posts, but still confused.

thanks.

here is selling the trans/motor group for just 700e with the wiring.

A good platform for another car.

http://www.car.gr/parts/photos/2458611/

i just had a small noise, from engine, morning start, after 1 minute was over, but now that i changed it, no more noise.

Also , till today i have no exhaust valve leak, otherwise i morning start would be difficult.

Hi,

I was having a small exhaust leak from cylinder 1. I did a lot of work, cause i had also to remove the power steering pump, and took me many hours to do it properly.

The pro-cat was missing inside, nothing, empty. inside you can see the lambda sensor.

see youself

1st cylinder exhaust valves

2nd cylinder exhaust valves

3rd cylinder exhaust valves

4th cylinder exhaust valves

My motor is working for 55000 km with LPG so the white color of the valves.

see my video

G4GF is completely DIFFERENT, no WAY.......

because i searched a lot our motor, our motor is a 99% 1993 mitsubishi Galant GTi 16v. Also we have a bit lower than mitsubishi compression.

The electronics are different, we have different way of measuring AIR FLOW METER. Hyundai is different than mitsu.

ECU also a bit different. Diagnosis the same.

Hyundai motor has no Crank position sensor (inside timing belts plastics)

Hyundai has no knock sensor.

kia joice has the same motor, but with 2nd Crank position sensor in timing belts.

and our motor is 1997cc.

Hyundai Lantra J-2 has no compatible part with our car.

The motor is like black and white colors different.

Also i have drove a 1996 mitsu spacewagon N33 with the OHC 133ps motor, and it seems to go better than my DOHC motor.

I am sure my motor is in TOP condition, but no perfomance motor.

Hi,

I also had in mind to change the lamda sensor, but local distributor told me at the start 60-80euros, and when it came, he told me new price 160 euros (with 50% discount) so i never changed it.
I speak for original hyundai.
It is very good for me to tell your results with this new sensor.
Fuel consumption? and more power?
As i still have the feeling that my motor is underpowered for 2 liter car.
I almost NEVER go more than 4000rpm, cause i am tired fixing cars my whole life.
Want always the less problems.
Results of the new lambda are good for me to know.

Dear friend, if you have done everything, and all are good, but still starter go slow, then the final solution might be this.

You might have over-advanced the ignition, which can cause by a tensioned timing belt. all these are controlled by the CPS, crankshaft position sensor.
It's located above the thermostat, it is a round thing, with 2 bolts securing.

Before playing with it, mark it's position with a marker.
Just release 2 turn both bolts, and while starting car, move it a bit (1-5 mm) left or right.
you will notice the motor to turn more freely or more slow during starter.

In my opinion, japanese-korean starter hardly can fail.

again, if i understand good, fuel tank got empty, then got 5 lt but no start.

if this, then try find fuel pump relay, jumper it, and make fuel pump work for 1 min, so to be sure fuel got to the motor.

Also, remove intake rubber collar, and spray brake cleaner, then motor MUST start for 1-2 seconds after that.

that's all tricks.

you mean the radiator cap.

Yes it might have gone bad. It's normal, and better replace it.

The next photo is very-very bad condition.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_6nTJ…/s1600/arrow_rad_cap1.jpg

1st of all, YES, start with a new radiator cap.

now,

you found really the starter motor, ok.

it has 2 cables. 1 BIG going to (+) and one small going to ignition relay and fuse.

Solutions:

1..put a new BIG cable from battery (+) to starter motor.

DON'T REMOVE THE ORIGINAL CABLE, install the new above it, just for test.

2.. put a BIG cable from battery (-) to one of the bolts of the motor, like the front motor mounts, or cylinder head bolts.

Make your measurements.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WQlATTWKJc

watch this lesson YOU at 1:32 CAREFULLY (this is your problem)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry68G0C2Fyc&feature=related

The same problem to me happend when the (+) contact pole cable was not good condition.

I put some wine vinegar in a cup, and left (+) pole inside for a few hours.

problem solved.

Also, i suggest always fix your car youself, nobody knows your car better.

believe me.

Hi,

from what i can understand, you don't know how starter motor is?

http://www.bresolin.com/imgs_ricambi/US-3610021740.jpg

starter motor is located under the intake manifold, between firewall and motor. You can go to it ONLY from under car, in the middle of car. see picture:

http://s1188.photobucket.com/a…othermostatexchange-5.jpg

The one motor, behind the belts, under the ignition coils, is the AC compressor.