I am always using FULL synthetic, like Castrol GTX 5w40 or mobil 1, and i see my cylinder head no sludge inside, also alluminium have this gold color, not brown, or black.

Lidl 15w40 simple oil, 5 liter, is very good for a cheap oil . 11 e / 5 lt.

lidl 10w40 semi-synth is also cheap, like 16 e / 5lt, and i used it.

But very long distance from part-synth to full-synth.

we cannot compare these.

Prefer FULL always.

Car parts shops has ldl quality oil at 2-3 times more price, at least.

About the thickness, for your cold climate, why never 5w40?

this motor has a tension to block hydraulics valve passing with 15w, or 20w

so why should i use thick oil..?

for our motors i suggest use 5w40 or 0w50

thanks for info.

I have the TECDOC 2011 also which gives same data.

Also i have the original workshop manual of santamo, 120 mb.

Check it there, rear seems to be fixed-type hub with bearing.

I asked if anyone done it before of me.

When i will do it i will make photos of course.

my santamo is always loaded 4 kids and rear 64 lt lpg tank.

Hi,

It passed a lot of time with no problem.

So, I made a 400km trip and managed to hear the noises.

Also when i turn the car the grinding is getting bigger.

part codes are:

51720-M2000 bearing-FR hub SKF
51731-M2000 seal-oil OUTER
51718-36000 ring-snap
51713-M2000 seal-oil OUTER
51750-M2000 HUB ASSY-FR
51750-M2010 HUB ASSY-FR
52720-M3000 HUB UNIT-RR WHEEL MB584791
52720-M3050 HUB UNIT-RR WHEEL MB914707

but i figured out that again ONLY santamo and KIA joice uses this parts.

If anyone found something from other model, or could change only the bearing REAR and not the whole rear hub assembly please tell me.

If i open the car now i might not found the right parts available.

The front are SKF about 67euros /item at ebay, and can press them out.

The rear? Anyone ever changes the rear Bearing without the hub with the 4 bolts?

http://www.pluspiecesauto.com/pieces-auto_3/609129.jpg

http://www.pluspiecesauto.com/…-10679-11514-2051318.html

I had made a post for this.

get BPR 6ES - 11 or BCPR 6ES -11

100% perfect!

I view the ford windstar at autscout24.de

Are you crazy? This is 3000 cc car !!!! no less than 18 lt/100km?

I don't know how is your santamo.

please make a video with your motor running, and driving, and put it in

youtube so i might can hear something strange and help you with santamo.

do you want to sell the car?

for what reasons? I inform you that i now have a mercedes W210 E200 komrpressor and a lot of problems.

If i write the problems i found with mercedes you are going to cry for me.

So if you lived with another car, santamo is very-very reliable.

I promise to make a video with my santamo on the road driving. It's just no problems, no strange sounds, car.

Motor is low power for me also but no problem.

Hi all,

I just had a new switch from sonata.

everything perfect.

caos North resin you are sending me photo of front brake pads.

And the front brake pads, best quality are ROADHOUSE brake-pads, from

model 97-2000 coupe (1.6 cc).

exactly the same

I just had a failure for so many time.

For fun i drove my old fathers Mercedes W210 and infront was my wife with santamo.

I saw many times that while se was braking to cross roads the rear brake light weren't working

Some times, 5 of the 10 pressing pedals, it worked.

I didn't wanted to panic her so till our home i didn't said a word.

I opened the switch, fixed it for some minutes, but the contacts inside are

just like old ignition contacts points.

So, whatever i did, it still worked about 5 times of the 10.

So, no cheap solution, tomorrow i go take a new switch from another hyundai model. (accent i think).

See photos:

of course our switch is a simple 2 point switch, which is best for me.

I had a car, with 5 points switch, an opel omega B, was a bad fix.

Santamo is just the best technology that we can fix.

easy and not many electronics.

The front brakes are very-very easy to fix. The ABS i don't know yet.

happy to help you.

Anyway, the idle adjustment is very special to me, according to the service manual.

So, just don't play with this:

You can clean it but not adjusting screws.

It is true, there is also the adjustment screw on the throttle. DON'T TOUCH IT.

just put the plugs like the picture i send you.

Never adjust idle. It's not so easy as it looks.

what you mean is that spark-plug-cable3 is very short.

So, someone installed you sparkplugs cables from other model maybe.

Is the motor running good? or abnormal?

also, take a bottle of spray cleaning home windows, put water in, and then spray water AT NIGHT, or dark place, while motor is working at idle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXAFQa0R9hA

i want to help you. But in english please.
what i understand is that you might have changed spark-plug-2 with spark plug-3.

I tell you that cause in 4 cylinder motors, the firing order is 1-3-4-2 and

i tested many-many times, if you exchange the No-2 with the No-3 spark plugs, the motor is working again, but a bit strange.

For start just do this. exchange spark-plug-2 with the spark-plug-2 from the valve cover, not from behind intake manifold.

hope i helped!

after so many km on LPG-gas i no longer measure on petrol.

Last time was on petrol 10 lt/100km combine drive, more open roads.

on LPG-gas, i also get now 10 lt/100km for the last 10 times i measured it.

Notice, every time i measure consumption which shows if my motor is in

good condition.

The Crankshaft position sensor is for adjusting spark advance, when you turn it clockwise-anticlockwise you go spark ignition from 20 moires before TDC till 0 moires to TDC (Top dead center)

This one has 4 cables in it.

The one sensor you point red to your photo is a sensor which in my case, if i unplug it, i can see the radiator fan working.

In my photo the red sensor, which is unplugged, is the this thermoswitch sensor, responsible for radiator fans.

Make your test to your car also, unplug it, then open switch to 2 position, just before starting motor, and you will see
radiator fan working.

The black sensor (which is plugged in my photo) is the thermo NTC sensor for giving info to the car ECU, adjusting injection. This sensor is from under side.

All japanese car have radiators fans to start working when you unplug them from sensor.

The reason is safety, cause a mailfunction , a lost of groung (- pole), will start the radiator fans.

Our cars, are the best for me quality japanese cars.

Our electrics are fantastic for me.

Let's check a european car , you will get sad.

are you using AC at that moment?
if yes, then it's the drain hose from the AC needs cleaning from under the car, to be able to drain th water from AC.

My car, produces a lot of water there, many people told me that i am leaking something below car.

Anyway, on passenger side, just above steerig rack rubber boot you will see a black rubber hose.

Just clean it.

valve cover gasket is very simple, nothing special. Just need good RTV sealant for EVEN NEW GASKET installation.

Note: RTV also to the 4 circle gaskets for spark plugs.

see:

About CHECK ENGINE light, most times, to me at least, is when it recognizes engine missfire, which is nothing special to me.

Check spark plug cables and new spark-plugs.

Spark-plug cables can checked during night, with a water spray (like for ironing)

Leave car at idle, and at night, start spraying small water quantities to the spark plugs cables.

If you see blue light, then your need new cables, that's all.

robby_olo what is insulation bearings (engine) ?

And also how many km does your car has?