please give us more details for the problem, maybe something else is wrong, and the diagnostic tells another item to change.

Most times , diagnostic tells you to change something that may gives an error code, but it's not the cause of the problem.

i am sure that the lantra J1 motor, has the same Luftmengensensor as santamo.
No difference. Maybe the plug a bit differend, like the Crankshaft position sensor i got from a J1 old lantra, changed plug, same color cable to same color and that's all.

Thanks god, we have a lot of destroyed J1 lantras, so many of these parts.

Also, the ECU isn't complatible.

So it's a 30-50 euros, work.

new photos,

Just had good spray the alloy wheels and covers.

Also cleaned whole car, seats , everything with compressed air.

I love it to drive it clean and silent.

I love it when it has no problem!!!!

because it was 4 years, 45000 km last timing belt, that means that it was installed quite good.

But it also means that the timing belt brand name at least must be a no-name one.

Also check what timing bearings you have.

The 45000 km are a lot to be wrong installed, so it might be bad quality parts.

Also, not even once in a million you got lucky.

Even 1 valve to be a bit damaged, then the motor needs opening again.

So, go buy a used motor at a cheap price.

That all, sorry.

short, accordining to your info.

"otherwise go, in addition to cable breakage, just plug the A-42 (front right under the fuse box) and C27 (on the right relay). "

if i do it, can i make permanent? or ust for a few days? It won't affect anything?

oh, mozartschwarz that very sensitive main bearings......

I have them...i have them....i have them.....

I am tired, i won't open the getriebe for the next 20000 km......

ossi1862 you belong to different post.

ossi1862 the click, must be the main ECU relay, is on the passanger inner fender, just side by side to the ecu.

Most times the battery (+) pole, has 2-3 wires on it. They get salt. Remove (+) cable of the battery, clean it carefully , and then re-install it.

If this not the case, then you have to go to main relay i said above.

today i installed the new tires to the new 15" alloy wheels.

I took it for a drive, no more rattles, no more steering pumping.

I hear less the road, and yes the passenger wheel bearing is making a bit of noise, but nothing special yet.

The 98' hyundai coupe are very sweet to the car.

The offset is the same, and the vented rotors are very impressive through alloys spokes.

total cost?

70 euros the alloys.

240 euros the tires.

update...

today finally got new tires 185/60 R15 from deutch, for 240e.

it's 3 months DOT tires, dunlop sp 01. Made in germany writing everywhere.

yes i feel the steering pumping. at straight line ,At 20-30 km/h and then stops, and after that at 90km/h a kind of vibration.

If i go to corner with same speed, 20-30 km/h i have more steering pumping, (shaking steering left-right)

Could these wheels roundness lost, 3-5mm, make such an driving difference?

update...

made also a video of the problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9q7stq6pMCM

description

"I had a problem, with passenger front wheel, giving the feel that it's going to dismantle.

I putted a wood block, under wheel to check if wheel is moving up-down, as you can see also, it has a 3-5 mm out of roundness.
I am not sure this lack could make car so jumpy.

But checked wheel bearings, ok, driveshaft tight, no slack,ok, But inner driveshaft coupling to the transmission has excessive lack.
It won't leak ATF, but i can see that the transmission inner big bearings that hold the ifferential, have a lot of gap.

Is this normal to play so much? 1-2 mm up and down?"

Hi,

I have a long time now, in which i thought the front noise was coming from old tires getting hard. I got wheel up, checked for play up-down, not playing, with hand power of course.

Today, i got bigger symptoms. while driving , in city, start-stop, i got a big bumping let front, like left front wheel was loose.

So, i stopped car, and checked if wheel lug nuts where loose.

They where fine.

This symptom, was coming 2-3 times, and mostly when car was rolling, with 20-40km, without much power needed. like on straight road, not hill climbing.

Anyone can describe the feeling before his front bearings failure?

solution to valve cover gasket oil leak is this:

http://eshop.kalpaxidis.gr/image.php?productid=16833

The GUN rtv sealant. It looks like spray, it's fantastic.

NEVER TAKE THE BELOW TYPE:

http://www.moto-stop.z10.pl/reinzpasta/reinz1.jpg

This one is shit. You can't use it nice. Most times, i fail with this.

The spray, pistol, type is top, and handle a lot of temps.

to short:

ABS (not yet)
pulley (did)
timing (did)
bar rear both sides (?) anti-roll bar?
wrap spring air bag (not yet)
front wheel bearings (I have a lot of noise from there but no slack)
flexpipe (starting to loose and hear motor at start up a bit)

more possible to mean valve cover gasket.

I bought original, installed 1 yea ago. Now it's leaking a lot, again, from valve cover and goes down.

I clean it outside, put the victor-reinz (like aerosol) black RTV sealant, with the small blue tube. putted around valve cover, without removing cover.

for the moment good.

Notice, my motor is very-very clean (only road dust).

Only leak is from there top.

just ordered from Germany, 4 tires, 185/60 R15 dunlop sp01. The price was 240 euros with installation

no, the clockwise rotation is most found on motors.

But if motor is installed left or right side of the car it makes it look strange.

here are some latest fotos i forgot to show you.

You can laugh with them.

when i installed the new belt, i install it with rotation green logos looking opposite direction.

Normal way, motor goes clockwise.

I installed it , green typed logos, going anti-clockwise.

of course many mechanics say that there is no problem with NEW timing belt direction.

I read GATES Power GRIP instructions, and the internal ply ratings of

the timing belt are made ONLY FOR THE RIGHT DIRECTION SHOWS

THE GREEN STAMPED LOGOS.

so, i fixed at once my mistake, and installed it the right way.

Now, you can laugh.

As a good solution, to my car perfomance, maybe is putting smaller diameter tires?

The automatik getrieben, is very slow, most times it changes gears at 2500rpm.

No problem with getrieben, problem is with motor torque.

It's very small torque at low rpms.

I went to http://www.1010tires.com/TireS…culator.asp?action=submit

site, and gave comparison of diameter difference.

I saw that if i go from 70 tire profil to 65 profil, i make my car like 3%

shorter differential.

This sound very nice to me. I cannot check it without byuing new tires.

Has anyone in the forum installed tires with 185/65 R14?

This is what i wanted to hear , that the low 600-700 rpm idle, will auto fix by itself after some km.

Also, it's true, when i want to notice a difference to the motor, i give it to my wife.

If she starts to speak about the car, then it's true, something changed.

If she don't tel anything. Then the cars is exactly the same as before.

I will make a try, cause my motor never heard pinging.

But i know also this procedure, and how the motor sound as the avance is more or less than normal.

For example , less avance than normal, gives better and steady idle to me, but after the mid-range 2500-3000 rpm, the motor sounds like it's pressed too much.

If you adjust avance more than normal, the motor is sounding very nice, and moves without noise from 1000-5500 rpm, but there is some kind of detonation noise you can hear even at idle.

It sound really like a small diesel.

Before the timing replacement my motor at idle was "dieseling", and after timing replacement, it won't do this.

This is why i feel the avance is off.