short, according to your timing avance photos, i want to change it.
But i don't have timing lamp.
If i open avance from 5' to 10' , by hand, shouldn't the idle go up a lot?
I better do it while motor is off, and then start it, so that the motor electronic don't catch the difference.
After timing replacement, the motor is working very nice, but the perfomance are a bit down. Maybe the slack of the old timing belt to new timing belt made that difference.
This is true, when a car has regulations for Africa climates, it's equipped with bigger water cooler and oil cooler. Also the Air-filter is passing through oil, to catch the dust.
All the other cars you had, when opening motor bonnet, the Hot air was coming to your face like this car?
Many times i really feel that this motor is going to melt.
All korean , japanese cars, never have this feeling when opening bonnet.
Note that the temp gauge is going a bit less than middle, no more.
I am sure it's caused by the pre-cat, cause it's turning a lot of exhaust gases back, and it makes heat. This is called backpressure.
This is the reason why ALL santamos, produce no noise from the exhaust. Most times hear motor noise, never heard my exhaust.
The same car as spacewagon, about same motor, and it's engine compartment temp feeling is very small.
The spacewagon don't has this pre-Cat.
I take serious your note that motor temp is lower now.
If you have a house thermo OUT/IN TEMP , we take for 3-10 euros, and put it in the engine compartment, then you can make a measurements.
But you had to measure it with them out.
On the other hand, cause i had many turbo cars, still have them parked without licence, so i got this thermo-tape, which is a 5cm wide roll of tape, which if you pass around exhaust manifold, or exhaust tubes, you will see it grabbing a lot of thermo.
Also, it makes exhaust gases more hot, which is better for the car.
I had 15 meters, cheap, from guys selling sea things on the athens dock.
It's lost from me, my best friend, wanted it for his racing car, so gave it.
the below pictures re examples from internet.
I don't have any mine photo.
http://images.quebarato.com.br…s+sp+brasil__315633_3.jpg
I am viewing your post carefully.
This is true, when a car has regulations for Africa climates, it's equipped with bigger water cooler and oil cooler. Also the Air-filter is passing through oil, to catch the dust.
I take serious your note that motor temp is lower now.
If you have a house thermo OUT/IN TEMP , we take for 3-10 euros, and put it in the engine compartment, then you can make a measurements.
But you had to measure it with them out.
On the other hand, cause i had many turbo cars, still have them parked without licence, so i got this thermo-tape, which is a 5cm wide roll of tape, which if you pass around exhaust manifold, or exhaust tubes, you will see it grabbing a lot of thermo.
Also, it makes exhaust gases more hot, which is better for the car.
I had 15 meters, cheap, from guys selling sea things on the athens dock.
It's lost from me, my best friend, wanted it for his racing car, so gave it.
the below pictures re examples from internet.
I don't have any mine photo.
http://images.quebarato.com.br…s+sp+brasil__315633_3.jpg
I am viewing your post carefully.
Short , you also closed the front grill ?
Are you sure? very, very dangerous for me in greece. If you stand on traffic jam, the heat core is unbelievable.
It's like running with a bicycle, get sweat, and then stop suddenly, you have then the feeling that everything is very hot.
it's very easy. take out the black surround of the gauges. 2 screws only.
Then i think it's 2 or 4 screws on the back, very well seen. you just take them and get gauges out.
Change lamp, that's all. Nothing special.
Short, i had your motor undercover idea, in my mind a long time.
Like audi's and so on.
BUT, in greece, the motor works at 82' Celsious thermostat, but the weather is always very hot.
Many times, when i park my car in my garage, i open the bonnet, and the thermal wave i get from motor is unbelievable.
I must had to do also with the pre-Cat.
If i close it from underneath i might make it more closed.
In germany, it's a whole different condition.
by the way , your motor seems to leak a bit of oil? on the plastic cover i see.
The Ding Ding Ding is just below steering wheel, behind the plastics. It must have burned, so it's not working. Very cheap from radioshacks shops.
The Radio wiring has 1 red for 1(yellow or orange) and 1 blue
1 red is for radio stations memories keeping (must have always power 12V, even with closed car switch)
1 yellow is for having power when car switch goes to ACC and it opens the radio by itself. when switch closes, it has no 12v.
1 blue is for giving power to electric antenna or antenna amplifier.
I never opened my santamo radio as it's a perfect VDO mp3, but i opened many other cars.
Most times, problem solved when crossing car's red wire with radios (yellow or orange) wire
and car's (yellow or orange) wire with radios red wire.
I hope it might help you.
I had just finished all the work.
It's far the most difficult motor, (almost like alfa 156, fiat 20V), the timing must be done with silence, and focused to the motor, noone around, till measure the auto-tensioner gap of 3,8-4,5mm, 1/4 turn back motor, 15 min break time, and 6 turns motor front and measure again.
All of the above are not for fun, they are very importand.
I could change the timing in 15 min (after removing plastic protector), but this motor is a bitch, you have to treat it nice.
For example, the down right gear is of oil pump, which has tension also from the timing belt, mine oil pump was very tight , not able to fall left or right by the balance shaft weight, which means it is a problem.
Someone before, had install timing very-very tight for not slipping belt tooths.
The result was damaged oil pump, also the right balance B shaft, had a leak cause the high tension also gave it damage to the inside bearing which is the reason the external oil round flange was leaking.
So, a tight belt is also a high cost when it comes next time.
It was a full 1 week work, cause i had to find also extra spares parts that i didn't expect.
you are a very interesting person......
I see you like making clever things on your car.
I have changes many-many cars, some of them had cruise control, but
it worked only on one of them.
It was a 1989 Corolla AE92 SR5, american edition.
I see you don't like easy things. You want the most difficult.
Best luck
And when you can, youtube it parts, work, driving.......
progress....
The red tool for holding the crankshaft, and unbolt the big central bolt, you an see to the above pictures is destroyed.
Couldn't handle too much torque.
So , i installed temporary again the old timing belt, and putted a long torque key between steering arm and lower arm.
The motor turns clockwise and the crankshaft center bolt unbolts anti-clockwise direction.
Then removed MPI fuse, and the starter tried to unlock it.
Believe it, even the 1,5 KW starter couldn't unlock it.
It needed 10 tries to start unlocking, the started was making a sound
like a stuck motor.
Believe me, i done many cars, this central bolt was the worst ever.
I needed to unbolt it cause i have to remove small crankshaft gear and replace the second small timing belt, which is on the back.
2 of my loves, both of them unbreakable if you maintain them right.
I love working on cars that have no kind of leak underground.
So i like japan and korea motors.
now 180.000km and started process.....
i hope most of you understand the parts of timing.
these are the old parts.
ok, i just saw your youtube with daihatsu applause.
I see you made the switches to gas-pedal in motor.
the switch to clutch
the switch to dashboard
and the switch to motor room.
Also a cable is going to operate the starter.
I saw your driving, i couldn't reallyfind when motor was off. I just checked
the RPM meter.
So, you take good spin, then press the dasboard switch , motor is off.
Then when you need motor on again, you just pess clutch, or even gas pedal?
And again you switch off only by dashboard switch?
The brakes are vaccum assisted, so you have brakes for 2-3 pressing, after that?
I am still wondering, but the profit on the taffic lights is really.
Very good application of your idea.
"The-restart option is rather rare used by me. in these cases seldom my start-stop-automatic kicks in. caused by a old 12v battery"
please, expain that, i don't understand, how it takes by itself?
Photos of anything, or youtube it?
It would be great for me to understand something different.
i understand what you said.
It means that in your area traffic lights are for more than 60 seconds, so you better close your engine.
Also, if you close the motor key switch, you might lock the steering lock.]
so, you have made this extra switch, to close and start, motor...
I understand it's not a starter switch, you just cut the power to the MPI.
I am consumpting 10 lt/100km combined.
What was your consumption.
Best pads for money, and top brake. It is called roadhouse. It's top ...top...top....
cause ATE are unfortunately from turkey, sorry.
All hyundais , i can buy 15 euros set of brake pads ATE, but not really good.
the bird like is a glue, in which they installed the AC temp sensor, to know when the AC evaporator freezes, and to stop AC compressor, until it u-freezes.
The blower resistor is the latest photo of my post, a black rectangular, with 1 fuse with 4 cables.
it has 2 inox screw holding it in place.
I hope i answered your question.
Please, can you explain me what you are doing with the central relay?
Hi, it's just getting summer here.
I had a bad smell inside car. So i removed everything to try find the Cabin filter.
But mine doesn't have any filter.
Anyway, i have photos of how dirty was my evaporator.
See the disassebly:
removed engine board, and then both wipers, and then the plastic protective , between front glass and motor. There was a lot dirty inside.
then goes from inside, removed may things but very easy.
The yellow is the passenger Airbag cable connection.
I removed and cleaned the round air-motor , see the empty round hole?
The ECU on the side
The cental Relay, click-click-click problem, it's always the cause, don't fool yourself.
Camera inside through round hole, photos of the evaporator.
Blower resistor, what cause 4 scale air blower working.
quality of everything is top. All electrics are installed perfect, believe me.
I just showed you the inner world of santamo.
I saw your photo. Very nice.
Please tell me, where exactly you take fuel pressure from?
At which point of fuel line you put this fuel pressure gauge?
I need this info, cause i don't wan to cut original fuel lines.
I just marked with a color marker the position for the sensor before removal. And install it at exact same position.
Our motor are low compression, just 9:1 , i am sure. So i put only simple
unleaded fuel as super unleaded won't give me anything more, a bit maybe.
