if you please tell me in english, what are you trying to do?

I also removed ECU on my santamo, and checked inner electric capacitors for blow up. They were ok, and put it back.

The spacewagon ecu has 2 connectors only, and santamo 3 connectors to the ecu.

hi, I got answer for my problem...
The problem was that inside the LPG reducer, (round big alluminium thing) has some membranes to adjust pressure to LPG injectors.
Every new installation, after 1500-4000km it gets a bit loose, adn i give it 2 turns, 4 allen key, clockwise.
Now the car goes perfect, really its more cold now, cause previous mixture was lean, so as you know lean mixture high temp, so no hesitations now.
Also , no need for oxygen, happy didn't order any.
The only known optical only matter, is the check-engine lights at idle only, which is confirmed as mitsu ECU info that has a misfire, which is also false, as the piggy-back ecu of LPG takes signal from each injector and send its own to LPG injector.
I was informed from many people that mitsu ECU has different injector resistance from other cars and gives this false.
Now my consumption is 8,5 lt /100km at open road with OD at 120 max km/h.
very happy.

Hi,

Except my other problem, that was existing before with lambda-sensor, i went 2 weeks ago to Plovdiv, in bulgary, and installed a very clever LPG kit.
In greece they wantet 1600E for something like that, and i got it for 800E, plus travelling , total 1000E.
The technicians where no funny guys, they just were working without any words. I liked that.
The kit is called T-GAS, which i couldn't find any info about that in google.

So i pay now 0,67E/liter LPG, and not 1,5 E/liter fuel.

I read a lot of info about LOVATI , BRC, eldessa, PRINS, STAG 300 gas systems.

I am a risky man, so i did my CHEAP but seems BEST VALUE FOR MONEY.

I just read your post, very good. So what do you suggest to buy and how much for my 166100km santamo?

well, have some news, changes plugs, almost 2 week not problem, and yesterday CHECK-ENGINE light is steady lighting, and the car bucks from idle to start moving, i get hesitations like it's going to die, i press gas to the end to continue moving.
Now i reset it again with battery disconnection.
I assume also Lamda-sensor , i tried to find one in local market but no luck. Anyone tries any new lamda-sensor? genuine? part-number?
I always prefer genuine but i don't know price.

hi, I have now 155.600km, and from 124000km i got my used santamo, august 2007, i haven't EVER changed spark plugs.
So, now that i have 2-3 times them warning check-engine lamp on, i think i's time to give some proper attention.
1st i thought it was bad quality of petrol, did 1-2 filling but lamp is coming on, 1 day after i disconnect battery everytime to reset lamp, and try to find an error again.
The car behavior is perfect, everything very-very smooth, motor perfect, but lamp on.
So it's not an importand damage, but it needs to check.
Starting, i don't have HIGH-SCAN hyundai tester to check error, and i am not willing to pay for that.I did once and i regret their aknowledge, by far bad service.
I have a feeling that car ECU has found some ignition misfires, so it give me this message.
So, i give you food for thought.

WHAT SPARK IS FOR OUR CARS?

Don't answer fast, cause you really have to be sure.

I attach the following data pics to check yourself.

The left one, dirty is mine just removed, the gap went from 1,1mm to 2,3mm --- the second is the one i found in market and installed, with 16mm spark-pipe not 21mm spark-pipe ---- the 3rd is the simpliest NON RESISTOR BP6ES which i can gap it manually from 0,6mm to 1,1mm specs. --- and below them you can see the car manual which tells me to put NON-RESISTOR BP6ES-11 (pregapped from industry)

spare parts program TECDOC 2009 give me that the best is
a spark-plug WITHOUT RESISTOR. Why?

what do you suggest? ARE ALL THE SAME?

Hi,

If anyone can give me info, about how many Celsius is the thermostat (by default) in your santamo?

I have the temp gauge, always a bit before middle, but if i open the front engine bonnet, i feel everything very hot, even the FUSEbox, in motor compartment, i cannot touch it.

Is it 98`Celsius like many OPELs?

just someone with good info.

i don't have your e-mail. mine is savvasiliadis[a]mail.saabnet.com

edit by Elantra: bitte statt [a] @ einsetzten. please insert @ instead [a]

well, i think it's a very-very good powered motor, old design, with high[rev torque, good air-flow, bad fuel consumption, fast designed cams, and BIG BAD POINT?

The balance-shaft with the small belt, is so,so,so bad thing. I am waiting to remove it at first change, cause it's very bad point to our motor reliability.

also, it's not a quite motor like many toyotas 4AFE, it produces a lot of noise.

i have searched all info about our motors. It's the G4CP-dohc with 102Kw which is a hyundai 90% copy of mitsu 4G63. Some parts are different like oil pump front case and etc.

it's the 1st 16valve dohc motors, which where designed for high output, no low torque.

now day, 16valve motors are designed with very narrow cams and are made for getting full of low end torque.

Hi,

I was missing a bit, some months, as i had to learn to live with the problem car.
I was very-very disappointed after all the post you have seen me make.

Automatik getriebe problem, Crank position sensor and crankshaft pulley problem were finally the cause of all my problems.

After i fixed these things i can say after 2 months driving a lot this car, that it seems to be problem free now.

I had lost my will for this santamo, and i thought it was a bad construction of a good mitsubishi design.

The problem was that noone in your germany ever knew how to service right these cars.

noone put the special getriebe oil and the special procedure for renewing timing-belt.

Now, i cross my finger, i sold all my other cars, except supra, and i use it a lot all day-night.

no problem.

Fuel consumption for 1997cc and auto, is not bad.

i get normal, easy driving, till 120 km/h no more, with no stressing gas-pedal and i get 10 lt/100km consumption.

it's here 45 Euros takes me 450 km.

I never dare to press motor, as it's a very-very heavy car.

i still admire it's way of passing above bad-surface, and the good noise insulation.

The auto nevers gets more than 3000-3500 rpm, it wrks perfect now.

Finally, i hope it will keep working as a japanese car, as it should be.

The small dieseling noise is there at idle, which i think most of you have this noise.

also, really at 1500-3000rpm, the motor seems sluggish but no problem for me, just a transportation A to B car with no noise, good structure, good drive, good brakes, low (inside) noise.

On the end, i have to write this.

The mitsubishi spacewagon of 1994 had a dashboard made of soft rubber-plastic material.

santamo dashboards are 100% plastic, also all inside plastics looks good from way, but when you touch them , they have hard-touch. Door panels, real panels, everything is from cheap-cheap plastic.

what a pitty.

mitsubishi inside materials are 100%, and i am sure, road noise is lower, when all internal materials are made of soft rubber-plastic material, i think caller ABS also this plastic.

Hyundai accent, of 1995 have this cheap quality of interior also.

bad point for a good chassis construction in my opinion.

well, my motor is a 6-bolt 1G 4G63, also a G4CP-d and i found and solved all problems with a gyu from internet, mitsu-freak mechanik.
Finally,everything (99%) works more than perfect.

1st the rubber crank pulley harmonic balance changed, and the engine now makes a perfect sound, like my others toyotas 4afe motors.

2nd i took a CPS from a 1991 lantra 1.6lt, changed the fuse, and plug-it, made a temp mark of previous cps position.

i made man-many rides, this thing is working perfect now.
also the motor looks like it has much more power in whole band, except the misses/stop it did, that i have no more.
the "best" hyundai mech in my city, is a shit-head then, as i told him many-many times what i read about cps in the internet, and he laughed, like i am a child. (35 yold).

i took many photos of my car under crankshaft.

I read this post:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html

which tells that if 7-bolts crankshaft----> crankwalk 90%

if 6-bolts crankshaft -----> no crankwalk

see below pics of our motors G4CP-D which gives us the look that they are 6-bolts bulletproof.

http://s68.photobucket.com/alb…i%20santa%20mo/?start=all

but from what i learned also, only our G4CP looks like 6-bolts but it's 7-bolts.

what a shit motor,my god.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forum…-oil-pump-front-case.html

snyone knows if our motor is 6-bolt please?

i have repaired in my life many,many,many cars.

So since i see i have an Engine problem, i won't fix it, when the problem is with bottom end.
I choose to change the whole motor with a GENUINE mitsubishi.

I went to salvage-parts-motors stores here today.

I found 5-7 of them at 650 Euros each one.

Of course i choose with MITSU logo on the top , as i can see G4CP-Doch is a SHIT,SHIT,SHIT,SHIT motor.

i am sorry but noone of you had ever damage to motor?

Haven't you heard about 4G63 crank walk ? 4G63=G4CP

I read so many posts, and i see that our Mitsu motor is 2G or 2nd generation that has problems with thrust bearings and low oil pressure, that gives problems, and the crank can be moved inside-out a bit mm.

http://video.google.com/videop…o=0&type=search&plindex=0

http://video.google.com/videop…o=0&type=search&plindex=0

so, nobody ever had any kind of motor moise to his G4CP?

hyundai got later motors like beta engines, in which they solved all this rediculus problems.

i should have been more careful when buying this SHIT....SHIT...SHIT motors.

i blame my self, but noone of you had ever damage to motor?

after changing the filter i made 500km, with no problem at all. Everything really works perfect.
The only noise problem, is that kind of dieseling noise i get and i am not sure from where.
The oil is Castrol GTX magnatec 10W40 FULL synthetic 50 Euros per 4 lt.

i have the video of my motor sounding in youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I80hgqiS14I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6P2GSTb-u4

Ok, our last data is this:

125.000 km and no Servive with fuel-filter. Still has the check-paint color red, to pipe and filter connection.

I think you never saw something like that.

anyone seen this ever?

Also, i don't forget, my car has many-many GENUINE Mitsubishi-motors SERVICES.!!!!!

It's VERY-VERY hard to change it, bad location.

Mein neues Problem ist dieses, w´hrend Spielraums 90-120 erhalte ich einen grossen Schlag, wie Maschine bin heraus und die Autoanfangsausschnittgeschwindigkeit sofort, ist- sie wie jemand schlie¯t meine ZÌndung weg fÌr eine Sekunde und andererseits an.
W´hrend dieses sehe ich keine Lichter oder Anzeigen zum Schlag, aber ich sehe nur den Tacho, unten revving.
Dieses jetzt geschieht mindestens 3mal in einem 100 Kilometer Spielraum.

Auch, wenn ich Spielraum mit very-very unver´nderlichem Gas-Pedal gehe und nicht mehr gehen, als 90 km/h, dann ich keine Probleme die meisten Male erhalten.

Das automatische getriebe scheint, vollkommen, keinen Upshift oder Herunterschalten ohne Grund zu bearbeiten.

Wenn jedermann Santamo Inhaber oder Mechaniker etwas wie dieses bitte gesehen, hat zu erkl´ren mir.

Ich vermute den Luftstrom-Sensor, jede einfache Weise zu ÌberprÌfen?

Ein Tag, hatte ich das Auto fÌr minimalen Leerlauf 20 aus meinem Haus heraus, und ohne Grund stellte er die Maschine ab. So vermute ich diesen Luftstrom-Sensor.

Mein Auto ist ein Santamo 1999 automatisches G4CP 1997cc mit 125000km.

My new problem is this, during travel 90-120 I get a big shock, like engine is out and the cars start cutting speed at once, it’s like someone is shutting my ignition off for a second and then again on.
During this I don’t see any lights or messages to the dash, but I only see the tacho revving down.
This now is happening at least 3 times in 100 km travel.

Also if I go travel with very-very steady gas-pedal , and go no more than 90 km/h , then I get no problems most times.

The automatic getriebe seems to work perfect, no upshift or downshift with no reason.

If anyone Santamo owner or mechanic has seen something like that please tell me.

I suspect the Air-flow sensor, any easy way to check?

One day, I had the car for 20 min idle out of my house, and with no reason it turned off the engine. So I suspect this Air-flow sensor.

My car is a 1999 Santamo Automatic G4CP 1997cc with 125000km.

yes it's true 1000%, is what i found also to my car.