I have ABS or ABS with stability program?
I don't have the clear ABS logo on my dash, I have the logo showing
and with the combination of an existing G-sensor at the center console, under the hand-brake lever.
the below pic is of a subaru console that has also g-sensors i didn't opened my car but
according to VIN i have this g-sensor also.
Is this sensor for ABS? helping system system in detecting loads during deceleration?
Have you also santamo?
Have you done this like the way you tell?
If you have done it, then yes i will do so.
Also, if you could please the tell me the procedure more precise.
thanks.
Hi,
from what i know, my has electronic. And the car has a special output for tacho measurments, has also a white sticker on it.
OFFICIAL WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURE
93-50-014 ABS AIR BLEEDING PROCEDURE
When any work is performed on the brake hydraulic system or if air is suspected to be in the hydraulic system, the brake system must be air bled. Sonatas equipped with ABS must be bled in two steps as follows:
STEP 1
CAUTION
Always use a bleeder hose when bleeding the modulator. The brake fluid may still be pressurized in the accumulator, and could damage your eyes or skin if you open a bleeder port without first attaching a bleeder hose.
* After working on the brake system, check all brake lines and fittings for proper installation. First bleed in the conventional manner, as outlined in the applicable shop manual. It is important to bleed the brake system in the following sequence:
1 - Left Rear
2 - Right Front
3 - Right Rear
4 - Left Front
STEP 2
Air bleed the ABS modulator using the following steps:
* Connect the MUT with the correct ROM and system pack. The connector is located in the fuse box at the lift kick panel.
* Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position to confirm that the MUT is "ON" ( do not start the engine ).
* Attach the bleeder hose to the RF/LR sump bleeder port and submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with brake fluid (use only DOT 3 grade fluid ).
1 - RF/LR SUMP
2 - LF/RR SUMP
3 - RF/LR ACCUMULATOR
4 - LF/RR ACCUMULATOR
* With the help of an assistant, apply light and constant pressure to the brake pedal, or use a pressure bleeder.
* Operate the RF B/D valve by using the MUT as follows:
o
Select "Actuator Test" number 3
from the MUT menu.
o
Input code number 43
(refer to page 4, on the MUT sequence table).
o
Push "YES"
on the MUT.
Slowly open the bleeder port 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and allow fluid to flow out until no air is seen in the fluid.
SEE SEQUENCE TABLE BELOW
CAUTION
NEVER OPEN BLEEDER SCREW WITHOUT FIRST ATTACHING BLEEDER HOSE, AS FLUID CAN FLOW OUT AT A HIGH PRESSURE.
NOTE
Even though the brake pedal may drop slightly as the solenoid valve closes, continue to apply medium pressure to the brake pedal. If the brake pedal needs to be re-pressed, dose the bleeder port first and than release and re-apply pressure to the brake pedal.
* Stop the operation of the actuator by entering "99"
and pushing "YES"
on the MUT.
* Operate the LR B/D
valve in the modulator by entering code number "41"
in the MUT.
* Repeat steps 6 and 7.
* Close the bleeder port and remove the bleeder hose.
* Tighten the bleeder plug screw. Torque: 5-6 Nm (50-60 kg. cm, 43-52 lb in)
* Bleed the air from the other port (LR/RR
sump. RF/LR
accumulator and LF/RR
accumulator) using the above procedures and the following table:
OFFICIAL WORKSHOP MANUAL PROCEDURE
COMPLAINT:
A high-pitched squeal noise may be heard in some 1992 Sonatas during right turns at low vehicle speeds or when stopped with a light load on the steering wheel to the right.
CAUSE:
Foreign material or impurity stuck in the rack and pinion control valve assembly.
CORRECTION:
Flush, air-bleed and properly refill the rack and pinion power steering system using the specified power steering fluid (ATF DEXRON II). Please use the following procedure:
* Raise the front end of the vehicle off the ground until the front wheels are free to turn.
* Disconnect the return hose from the oil reservoir cooler tube at the location shown on the next page.
CAUTION
Be careful not to spill any power steering fluid onto the alternator.
* Install a plug on the oil reservoir side as shown.
* Connect a vinyl hose to the disconnected return tube and place the other end into a large container in order to catch the flushing fluid.
* Start the engine and turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop (Do not hold the steering wheel against stops) while replenishing the fluid through the reservoir.
* Continue flushing until all of the old fluid, plus a minimum of 1 additional quart of new fluid, is flushed through the system.
* Unplug the pump reservoir inlet and reconnect return hose.
* Turn engine off, and fill reservoir to the full mark.
* Air bleed the power steering system using the procedure described on the following page.
* Recheck the fluid level.
* Inspect all connections for fluid leakage
* Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and the squeal noise is corrected.
AIR BLEEDING PROCEDURE:
* Disconnect the high tension cable, and while operating the starting motor intermittently (for 15 - 20 seconds), turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and to the right five or six times.
NOTE
1.
During air bleeding, replenish the fluid supply so that the level never falls below the lower position of the filter.
2.
If air bleeding is done while the vehicle is idling, the air will be broken up and absorbed into the fluid; be sure to do the bleeding only while cranking.
* Connect the high tension cable, and then start the engine (idling).
* Turn the steering wheel to the left and then to the right until there are no air bubbles in the oil reservoir.
CAUTION
Do not hold the steering wheel turned all the way to either side for longer than ten seconds.
* Confirm that the fluid is not milky, and that the level is up to the specified position on the level gauge.
* Confirm that there is little change in the surface of the fluid when the steering wheel is turned left and right.
CAUTION
*
If the surface of the fluid changes considerably, air bleeding should be done again.
*
If the fluid level rises suddenly when the engine is stopped, it indicates that there is still air in the system.
*
If there is air in the system, a jingling noise may be heard from the pump and the control valve may also produce unusual noises. Air in the system will shorten the useful life of the pump and other parts.
today, i needed to adjust the handbrake lever.
Release Handbrake, not up.
So, removed 2 rear wheels, and removed 10mm rubber caps on the discs.
If you rotate disc to position this 10mm hole, at 6 o'clock, you can put inside a screwdriver
and adjust the handbrake lever. I'ts a click-click-click round inside, you move
with the screwdriver up or down TILL YOU CANNOT ROTATE DISC BY
HAND.
Then you do 5 clicks backwards.
You do this to the other wheel also.
You are finished.
Rear handbrake is with cables and it's a small drum inside rear discs.
Very nice system.
Also, our rear disc are Ventilated.
what you need to know?
1. if you have ventilated discs?
2. which other car has same rear discs like your?
3. what brake pads it take?
If you need info, i Have TecDOC parts catalog program, which shows compatibility between santamo and other makes-models parts.
Hi,
The fluid was burned, color black, but also lke a car oil, and not thin as new ATF.
The car steering made some different noise, which make me check the oil..
Thought the dipstick, the fluid seems perfect in color, and near to max.
So as you can see, i cleaned the inside cylinder plastic filter, it was BLACK SLUDGE on it, believe me.
My car has 163000 km now.
I will do this procedure 2 more time, next 2 weeks.
I know where the level is.
I made a mistake, fluid inside was red, not yellow, just the dipstick make me feel it was yellow.
new photos.
I removed 3 times (every 2 days, driving car) already the fluid inside reservoir and replaced with dexron III.
But even 3rd time fluid was completely black. I have 2 lt available for renew.
left black sludge of the 3rd time. right new dexron III same quantity measure,
I never wash my motor, i am afraid.
new fluids
cleaning power steering fluid inside filter.
it's a big noise to remove the 2 collars, prefer changing it every 2-days for 3-4 times, till new fluid come to top.
you mean ATF dexron, but have you done a complete change of fluids?
the original color is not red, is clear-yellow. I know it's a cheap exchange as ATF is about 5 euros per liter.
I am a bit worry with that. Power steering costs 200E used.
new pricise consumption measurements.
0,756 Euro / 1 lt LPG
42,6 lt LPG for 480 km
believe it or not, New air-filter Genuine, New full synth oil 5w-40, thermostat 82' Celsius, and i get 8,8 lt / 100 km of LPG.
It seems unbelievable but it's true 100%.
I didn't changed lamda sensor.
The car is driven a bit hard by my wife, she is accelerating fast from light to light, and the motor is going much better really than with petrol.
Hi,
Also , i need to flush all the fluids of the the power steering.
It's that yellow PSF-3 inside.
It's a genuine Hyundai power steering fluid and its very expensive, to spend 2 liters of it fr flushing complete steeering.
I read that Dexron II or III is the same, PSF-4 isn't DEXRON, so anyone suggesting changing complete system to dexron III?
From clear-yellow PSF-3 the dexron iii will be full-red colored.
Anyone did this?
changed the whole system with cheaper aftermarket lubricants?
I read the 1996 spacewagon manual that says DEXRON II or IID.
I don't believe local dealers, cause they suggest also DEXRON II for auto getrieben which is like killing your car.
I better believe owners like you, cause if you have done it, you know if it's wrong for our santamos.
thanks.
good answer,
but i mean that i need to change ALL the brake fluids, cause my car, with auto getrieben is based 100% ONLY on brakes. So , after so many years, noone changed them.
I have the feeling that i cannot press the pedal many times with ABS, motor off, so i cannot bleed all the fluid till new fluid comes to bleeders.
When i change brake pads, i do the same trick as you.
but 1998 model, till today, 13 years, noon changed them.
Hi,
I know many cars with ABS, that need tester connected, to give a command for bleeding brakes, and then the ABS pump works always to be
able to change the old brake fluids.
My method:
start engine, idle, open reservouir cap, open bleed valve on FR wheel rotor, someone press a bit pedal, and i open-close bleeding nut, till new fluid comes to sight.
I didn't do it, but i believe it needs to work, to have servo, and for ABS pump not cuting fluid draining.
If anyone has done it right, please inform me, cause i don;t want to go to hyundai dealer.
We all know the transmission takes ATF-SP-III. thats allright.
But there is also a differential there. Does it has seperate box and it takes Valvoline 75w 90 oil there?
Cause i never did it. I changed many times transmission ATF oil , but never differential oil.
If anyone has done this work in a garage please inform me.
on auto boxes F4A22 and KM175-5 below transmission you can see clearly 2 different plugs for changing oil.
when i changed air-filter , i removed collar to intake manifold, and with a cheap 4 euro BRAKE CLEANER SPRAY, no brand, to spayed the intake to remove the carbon deposits.
on the own photo you can see the electric idle control, common all mitsubishi, which is really easy to remove it.
here is a good total photo with LPG installed.
and i want to inform you, that now, after 15000km in LPG, the car performs better with LPG than PEtrol and it really works smoother.
LPG gives more torque. And i never asked for power. I need torque and cheap gas.
last, after the cleaning with spay, i started motor, for 5 mins the idle was going up-down up-down, from 1500 to 1000 rpm.
That was all, now car is great.
well, i had a bad thermostat, when going downhill the temp goes to near zero, and when travelling straight road, or uphill, then just a bit lower than middle.
The consumption was 10 lt mixed city and open, most open.
Now changed thermostat with 82 celisius, not 88, cause sunny greece.
Now consumption is lower at 8,5 lt/100 km , i made 3 measuments,
also the LPG consumption was 13 lt/100 now its 10 lt top.
so a bad working thermostat was a good fail.
also original Hyundai thermostat is 88, so i putted aftermasket but check it to be exactly the same design, but 82 temp.
Measurements are 100% checked by me.
hi, i read your high idle problems. How did you fixed it really? It must be something strange.
these are the only photos i found of my car ECU, its from a mobile phone.
this one is from e-bay
