CHECK-ENGINE lamp is on

  • hi, I have now 155.600km, and from 124000km i got my used santamo, august 2007, i haven't EVER changed spark plugs.
    So, now that i have 2-3 times them warning check-engine lamp on, i think i's time to give some proper attention.
    1st i thought it was bad quality of petrol, did 1-2 filling but lamp is coming on, 1 day after i disconnect battery everytime to reset lamp, and try to find an error again.
    The car behavior is perfect, everything very-very smooth, motor perfect, but lamp on.
    So it's not an importand damage, but it needs to check.
    Starting, i don't have HIGH-SCAN hyundai tester to check error, and i am not willing to pay for that.I did once and i regret their aknowledge, by far bad service.
    I have a feeling that car ECU has found some ignition misfires, so it give me this message.
    So, i give you food for thought.


    WHAT SPARK IS FOR OUR CARS?


    Don't answer fast, cause you really have to be sure.


    I attach the following data pics to check yourself.



    The left one, dirty is mine just removed, the gap went from 1,1mm to 2,3mm --- the second is the one i found in market and installed, with 16mm spark-pipe not 21mm spark-pipe ---- the 3rd is the simpliest NON RESISTOR BP6ES which i can gap it manually from 0,6mm to 1,1mm specs. --- and below them you can see the car manual which tells me to put NON-RESISTOR BP6ES-11 (pregapped from industry)


    spare parts program TECDOC 2009 give me that the best is
    a spark-plug WITHOUT RESISTOR. Why?


    what do you suggest? ARE ALL THE SAME?

  • Hy my friend from creek!


    I used the non risistor ones. Bevore i got some made by champion, also 16mm. With the NGK 21mm the car runs much better so i think they are good.


    I think the problem with the engine check depends on your Lambdasond. 150000km is normal for that error. I got it too. You can use a sond that works on a eclypse or space wagon. Costs are about 40-60€ if you buy a universal and not a original. Take a better one because of the temperature in and at the exhaust. I got problems with the isolation of the cables from the sonde because of the temp. A wunder that my ECU is not demaged.

    Relativitätstheorie:
    Wenn ich Dir einen Finger ins Auge stecke, haben wir beide einen Finger im Auge, aber ich bin relativ besser dran!

  • well, have some news, changes plugs, almost 2 week not problem, and yesterday CHECK-ENGINE light is steady lighting, and the car bucks from idle to start moving, i get hesitations like it's going to die, i press gas to the end to continue moving.
    Now i reset it again with battery disconnection.
    I assume also Lamda-sensor , i tried to find one in local market but no luck. Anyone tries any new lamda-sensor? genuine? part-number?
    I always prefer genuine but i don't know price.

  • I bought a oxygen sensor from Maxgear, MGS-507, at ebay. Kosts are about 50€. Works good. Before i got a cheaper one. Cables burned off! You can use any one for Eclypse or Space Wagon for example. Heated one, with four cables.

    Relativitätstheorie:
    Wenn ich Dir einen Finger ins Auge stecke, haben wir beide einen Finger im Auge, aber ich bin relativ besser dran!

  • hi, I got answer for my problem...
    The problem was that inside the LPG reducer, (round big alluminium thing) has some membranes to adjust pressure to LPG injectors.
    Every new installation, after 1500-4000km it gets a bit loose, adn i give it 2 turns, 4 allen key, clockwise.
    Now the car goes perfect, really its more cold now, cause previous mixture was lean, so as you know lean mixture high temp, so no hesitations now.
    Also , no need for oxygen, happy didn't order any.
    The only known optical only matter, is the check-engine lights at idle only, which is confirmed as mitsu ECU info that has a misfire, which is also false, as the piggy-back ecu of LPG takes signal from each injector and send its own to LPG injector.
    I was informed from many people that mitsu ECU has different injector resistance from other cars and gives this false.
    Now my consumption is 8,5 lt /100km at open road with OD at 120 max km/h.
    very happy.

  • Hello
    I have also that problem. My "Check Engine Lamp" also on. But my english is not so good. Please can you tell me in german the problem??


    Pinockio

  • Er hat ne LPG-Anlage die schlecht eingestellt war. Hätte er auch früher Schreiben können das die drin ist. Den Kram mit den Innenwiderständen der Einspritzdüsen Schenken wir uns mal. Hängt nur mit der schlechten Harmonie des STGs seiner Billiglpganlage und dem STG (ECU) des Santamos zusammen.... Ob ich auf Dauer so Fahren würde wag ich zu
    bezweifeln..
    Lass Auslesen oder Wechsel die Lambdasonde auf Verdacht. Ich empfehl dir Auslesen.

    Relativitätstheorie:
    Wenn ich Dir einen Finger ins Auge stecke, haben wir beide einen Finger im Auge, aber ich bin relativ besser dran!

    2 Mal editiert, zuletzt von mozartschwarz ()

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